We’ve never been able to precisely replicate the “cheese pie” served at Andre’s Confiserie Suisse in Kansas City, but this one is close. There is no quiche recipe, notwithstanding the excellent work of Julia Child, that will turn out a cheese pie, or a cheese pie with onion and bacon, as good as Andre Bollier’s.

• Single pie crust
• 3 eggs
• 1 ½ cups half and half
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• Salt
• Pepper
• Maggi
• About 2 cups of sharp Swiss and Gruyère cheeses, grated
• 2 strips bacon, cooked until lightly browned and crumbled
• ½ onion, diced and sautéed until just browned

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 9-inch pie pan with unbaked crust. Beat eggs together lightly; add half and half, cornstarch, dash salt, dash freshly ground pepper, and a couple of dashes of Maggi. Sprinkle bacon and onion over the bottom of the crust, then top with cheeses until the pan is full. Pour egg mix over cheese. Bake at 350 degrees or until quiche is set in the middle.

The better the quality of the cheese, the better the result of the quiche. Ask the cheese people at the grocery store, or, if you’re lucky to have serious cheese stores near you, ask the experts there.

When pie season rolls around, in the summer for fruit and in the fall for custard and pumpkin and nuts, we’ll post all of our recipes for pastry doughs. But even the august Cook’s Illustrated people have now given their blessing to use Pillsbury’s refrigerated pie crust doughs. Honestly, the rolled versions are now good enough that, unless you have a really good reason to make a homemade dough, you don’t need to feel at all guilty for using store-bought.