The writer Calvin Trillin once wrote that he and his sister Sukey were the only people he ever knew who ate at Nu-Way’s on Troost in Kansas City; we never knew anyone else who ate there either, but we stopped there for hamburgers nearly every time we came home from Starlight Theater on summer nights. Nu-Way on Troost has long since vanished, but there are still Nu-Ways in Leavenworth and Wichita, in Kansas, and other Midwestern chains like Maid-Rite serve these “loose meat” hamburger sandwiches that are so messy and so good.

• 1 pound ground beef, 90 percent lean
• Water
• 1-2 white onions, finely diced
• Salt
• Pepper
• 2 teaspoons yellow mustard
• 1 beef bouillon cube

In large saucepan, steam beef, half of the onion, salt and pepper until beef is cooked through; with a spoon, crumble beef finely. Add bouillon cube and mustard and mix thoroughly. Brush buns with mustard, put a scoop of beef on the bun, and top it with dill pickle slices and diced onion. Serve with ketchup on the side.